Sunday, February 23, 2014

Feb 23 Update from Kyiv

This part of the post was written by Paolo...

Dear all,
As you know, we have gone through some momentous days here in Ukraine. Right when it seemed that the protest was doomed, as Yanukovich had been able to summon some selected army units to Kyiv (by replacing the Chief of Staff with one of his henchmen), and was ready to disperse Maidan using force (and murdering a few thousand people), right the day after he had ordered to shoot at the crowd and the Berkut police was about 50 meters from retaking the center of the square, things started to go south for him.

More and more deputies defected his party and joined the opposition, and the Parliament was finally ready to vote a return to the 2004 Constitution, which would curb his powers significantly (this is something the opposition had been asking for almost two months, but was not able to get through earlier). On Thursday, after news came in that approximately 70 people had been killed by snipers, there was a huge outpouring of popular support to the protesters. Everyone I know in Kyiv brought medicines, food and other things to Maidan, to support the protesters, in spite of the danger.  Some of the President's closest allies defected him (including the new mayor of Kyiv whom he had just hand-picked a month ago). After hours and hours of negotiations with the opposition, mediated with the French, German and Polish Foreign ministers, the President agreed to a new truce and  a power sharing agreement (new elections in December, return to 2004 Constitution, new amnesty for all).  Immediately after the deal was announced, the Berkut special police (about 12,000 individuals) and the special units of the army left Kyiv.

When the three leader of the opposition went to Maidan and explained the deal, they were rejected as traitors ("how could you shake the hand of the murderer?" one protester asked Klichko, the leader of the Udar Party. "How can you leave him in power for another 9 months?"). The protesters, who felt the balance of force was now tilting in their favor, gave the President an ultimatum, and "ordered" Parliament to impeach/dismiss him. Otherwise, they were ready to storm the Presidential Administration by force.  We saw in few hours the whole power structure Yanukovich had built over the last four years collapse. His mafia comrades/senior members of the Party of Regions started heading frantically to the airport, to go to the Eastern part of Ukraine or/and to Russia. The whole city was left in the hands of the protestors. Over the last two days the Parliament voted a series of measures which would have been unthinkable until a week ago (dismissal of President, new Defense and Interior Ministers, liberation of Timoshenko, etc.). When the President flew out of Kiev, the crowd was allowed into his villa, which is about 15 miles north of the city. They found a sort of "Bokassa" heaven, with all sorts of luxuries and extravaganza, just as it was in Saddam or Gheddafi's residences. Some now think it should be turned into a museum of corruption.

Now Kyiv is quiet, and the "fighting" has moved 500 miles East. Yesterday there were clashes in Luhansk, near the border with Russia, and the President is reported hiding somewhere in Donetzk, his native region. Yesterday a urgent "congress" was also called in Karkiv by the pro-president/pro Russian members of the Party of Regions and the leaders of some of the Eastern oblasts. However, the congress was finally disbanded without conclusions, or precise plan of action. It seems that the remnants of what the protestors call "the mafia" (Bandu in Ukrainian) is now all but fleeing the country.  The richest oligarch who in the past backed Yanukovich (Akhmetov) today has publicly asked the members of Parliament he controls (about 40) to go back to Kiev and work with the new government.

I am sharing with you two videos, which in my view are very powerful. One is from a person, Mr. Roman Tochyn, who was killed 4 days ago. He is a simple man, and explains in the best words I have heard why he -together with other thousands, decided to join the protests in Maidan:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMbKswFJF8M
 

The second is a powerful video in Ukrainian (but you can get the main message of pride even without speaking Ukrainian):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWHe8bEBVI0


Over the last few days, the violence here has been extreme. It is receding now and still happening in the East, but few episodes happened yesterday as well. For example, yesterday they found one of the snipers, and they almost lynched him (see first picture below).
 
So many people have sacrificed their lives for this revolution. Honor to them! However, the difficult part starts now: on the basis of their sacrifice, build a different government, honest, accountable and responsive to citizens. Build a better country. 

A sniper, responsible for the deaths of many unarmed protestors, captured by the protestors. 
And now a word from Clara...

And as for us?  We are staying put for now.  There really seems to be no danger here for us.  Many have left, expats and locals alike.  Since Gio's school is off this coming week anyway, many of our friends already had vacation plans.  We had decided a while ago to stay here and for now we will stick to that plan.  Maria, Gio and I have been suffering with a bad flu so the thought of traveling at this point is not appealing.  Plus we have added to our family!  We have two new cats, 6 month old brothers named Salt and Pepper, so we want to stay here and bond with them. Of course, if anything changes and we decide we would be better off in Italy, we can fly out any day that we choose.  Thank you to everyone who has expressed concern.  We have been grateful for your thoughts, but also feel lucky that we got to be here to witness such a momentous time in Ukraine's history.  Slava Ukrainii!

Here is Maria, who despite a high fever and constant tummy troubles, learned to sit up last week.  Here she is meeting Pepper for the first time....



Here is Gio transferring the germs he picked up at school over to his sister.  Sigh.
By Wednesday both Maria and I were not feeling well at all.  Somehow, Maria continued to have her amazing appetite!  This was a sandwich I was trying to eat....

Morning quilt time
Lavash and tangerines as Kyiv was burning.
Poor Gio.  This flu has knocked us all out.
Salt and Pepper arrived here on Friday afternoon.  By the evening they had already let Enzo know who is boss.  Here they hare taking first dibs at Enzo's dinner....

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Gio & Paolo Go to Maidan

[This post was written by Paolo.]

Today Gio asked me to go and see the "protestors".  Since it was calm, we decided that it would be OK to go.

After having a snack outside one of the tents, he asked me to go "where the people were fighting"
We approached Hrushenskava from Europeinska Square and since everything was calm (plenty of babuskas around!), we decided to go to the front line.  



Gio, like a 21st century Gavroche, climbed the barricades, faced the Berkut (the Ukrainian special police) holding the Ukrainian flag.


Finally, right when we were on the barricade closest to the Berkut, he pulled out his Captain Underpants book, which he had been carrying around all morning, and asked me to read the last chapter!
Inspecting a torched car.
Meanwhile, back at home our fearless guard dog has decided our bed is really the best place for a nap.
Maria chose not to go along on the adventure
Our dear friend (and Gio's godmother!) Linda knitted this adorable sweater.
Cheese sticks are a new favorite snack.
And what did Gio do after his visit to Maidan?  He built his own barricade in his room!

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Protests, Puppies and Pasta

[Yes, Gio recently finished "P" week at school.  When asked by his teacher to think of a P word during circle time Gio made an "interesting" choice.  I cannot say I was proud of it, but I was also not too surprised. At least his knowledge of male anatomy is accurate....]

Our lives continue to be quite interesting around here.  Ukraine remains on the brink of political and economic collapse.  Thousands of protestors are still occupying much of downtown Kyiv.  And, in Belli family news, Enzo has become a father!  We have no pictures yet of the puppies (4 boys and 2 girls born Feb 2), but I will post them as soon as we get a few.

We are about to adopt two cats from a family who is leaving Kyiv.  They are two 6-month old brothers named Salt and Pepper.  This is a picture of Salt.  Can you guess the color of Pepper?  And, yes, we are crazy.  Happy but crazy.
Maria continues to explore new foods.  Broccoli is a hit....
....but pasta wins the popularity contest!


Gio and Maria are quite a pair eating dinner together.
Maria watches every move her beloved brother makes.


I just love her adorably chubby arms!
Since she has no teeth I steam carrots for her so that they are not too mushy but still gum-able (is that a word??)
Post carrot she gets her pasta "dessert"!
A first taste of tangerine.
Embracing Ukrainian cuisine I offered Maria a few Ukrainian meat "paddies."  Thumbs up. 
Post dinner a bath is always a MUST.
Maria has found her feet at last....
...and thinks they are great fun!

This past week I took a walk down to Maidan to see the protest camps.  I had not been since before Christmas and was curious to see how things had changed.  

First I went to the place where the Lenin statue had been toppled.  Protestors had put in its place a gold toilet to mock Yanukovych who supposedly has gold toilets throughout has massive compound outside of Kyiv. By the time I went to see it, the toilet had been removed.  Too bad.  It would have been funny to get a shot of Enzo peeing on that!  
Once I entered the barricades of the protest camp I saw this poster of various bullets and explosives the riot police had allegedly used again the protestors in mid-January.

Here is Enzo in front of the barricades on Kreshatik.  For those of you in the US, this would be like having barricades blocking Pennsylvania Avenue in DC. 

The barricades are made of wood, bags of rocks, tires and many other materials.  
These barricades are blocking one of the fanciest streets in Kyiv- behind this pile are many very pricey shops. 
Trash has clearly not been collected in ages in downtown Kyiv.

Enzo strolling along Kreshatik.  
A tent city now occupies much of this 6-lane road.  
One tent had two ping-pong tables.  While the protestors are in real danger and are here for a very serious purpose, I can imagine much of their day is quite dull, so why not have a bit of fun?
More barricade shots of the new father.  

A video of the barricade crossing all of Kreshatik.  
This side of the protest site is an 8-minute walk from our apartment. 



Meanwhile, back at #7 Gorkogo, Maria discovered crusty bread.

Another big hit.  What is she going to try next week? Tune in soon to see!
Happy 6 months to our sweet Maria.  Hard to believe you are 1/2 a year old!